Chevy Bolt – Most Frequently Asked Questions

Everything You Need To Know About Your Chevy Bolt But Were Afraid To Ask

 

Chevy Bolt FAQ / Info

Welcome to my information dump / roundup on all things Chevy Bolt related. I have been toying between making this an actual FAQ, but there’s just so much information that I think point form notes under headings is better. If you are looking for something specific, just use your browser search function with some keywords. Scroll down to see a table of contents on the side of the page. Please let me know what you think in the comments, and if there is anything that I missed!

GM’s Manuals

The best place to start is with the owner’s manuals and the getting to know your car guides!

  Owner’s Manual Getting To Know Your Car
2017 link link
2018 link  
2019 link link
2020 link  
Info On Range
  • The EPA-rated 238 miles (or 259 for the 2020) of range is just an estimate. This is based off of ideal temperature and a mix of driving conditions, both highway and city.
  • The EPA-rated 238/259 miles is based on warm weather driving. You will have up to 40% less range in the cold winter – this is normal.
  • Any electric vehicle will do much better at slower speeds. If you drove only at 25mph in 65F, you’d get 400 miles of range.
  • All vehicles are much less efficient the faster that you drive. The air resistance goes up by the square of the speed that you are travelling. Driving at 75mph requires about 40% more energy per mile than driving at 60mph, so will result in about 30% less range. It’s harder to notice in a gas vehicle, but it’s the same there.
    • So if you are worried about not making it home or to your next charger, just slow down. 5mph slower can mean 10% more range.
  • Optimal range will be around 70F/21C. The colder it is, the less range you get, approximately 1% less range (or 2.4 miles) per every 1C/2F below that.
    • So if your new car isn’t charging to “full 238 (or 259) miles”, that’s why.
    • Yes, really, only getting 160 miles of range in the middle of the winter with a lot of highway driving is normal.
    • For example, around 40F you can expect about 36 miles less range than driving at 70F.
  • The range indicator is just an estimate. It’s affectionately referred to as the “Guess-o-Meter” (GoM) because it’s really just a guess about how much range you have left.
    • The middle number will adjust as you drive based on recent driving conditions.
    • Usually within 50 miles it will be accurate provided that the conditions stay the same.
    • However, wind, rain, sudden temperature shifts and large speed differences will all reduce range.
    • The top/bottom numbers are about 18% above and below the center number, and should not be interpreted as actual min and max numbers.
    • For example, you may be stuck in medium flow traffic (30-40mph) for an hour on a long trip, and it’ll say that you have 200 miles of range at 75%. You pull off onto another highway, and jump up to 75mph. Within 10-20 miles your range may drop down to 150 miles or lower.
  • If your general capacity (over a week or two) is significantly less all of a sudden, it is possible (although very unlikely) that you have a failing battery. The car will reduce the usable range to try to prevent you from having a sudden cutoff of battery. But it’s likely just cold.
  • Before you worry, however, check your capacity first!
  • Can’t figure out why your range keeps jumping up and down without using the heater? The Bolt has “Auto Defog” turned on by default which runs the AC and heater to get rid of humidity so that your windows don’t fog up. This can also cause the range to suddenly drop shortly after you start your trip.
 
Info on Cold Weather Driving
  • Yes, you can lose up to 40% of your range in cold weather. Read in the section above for more details.
  • Use preconditioning to help warm up the battery and cabin while plugged in before leaving. Each run is 20 minutes, you can enable a second run after 30 seconds which will give you 40 minutes.
  • Set departure mode charging so that the battery is only “fully” charged (to your target level) about a half an hour before you’re ready to leave. This helps with the temperature.
  • If you’re going to drive where there is snow, get snow tires. If your tire pressure indicators are off, the place that did it likely rotated the tires and didn’t relearn the locations.
  • If your side blind zone indicators go off occasionally, this is a known problem – get your dealer to look up bulletin 17-NA-097 to apply more foil tape to protect the sensors.
  • Charge outside when there’s lots of snow or ice? Consider something like this to protect the charge port.
  • Regen only works on the front 2 wheels, and although there is some traction control and ABS which can be applied, caution needs to be exercised when driving in L when it is slippery.
  • Preconditioning the cabin really only works if you leave the HVAC system in AUTO mode, otherwise it will use what you left it manually at.
  • Yes, you can use chains or straps, but you need to make sure that they are low profile ones. Socks are not useful.
Info on Hot Weather Driving
  • Generally speaking, there’s not much to worry about.
  • The battery is more efficient when warm, but will have slightly more degradation.
  • Luckily the car has a very good thermal management system, including a decent cooling system that uses the car’s air conditioner.
  • This thermal management will run whenever plugged in, plus whenever unplugged but at a higher threshold. The car will always keep the battery within a decent temperature range to minimize damage.
  • Definitely set a target charge level around 80%, or use hilltop reserve when the temperature will be above 100F, and leave it plugged in whenever you can, even if only on 120V.
  • You can expect probably a 10% range reduction, maybe 20% or more if you do a lot of stop & go driving.
  • Humidity actually lowers air density slightly (H20 weighs less than O2 and N2), so efficiency will be slightly better in that regard, but active cooling will eat that up and more.
Info on Regen
  • How does regen work? Regeneration takes the forward (or reverse) momentum of the car and uses the motor in reverse to generate braking force and recharges the battery. This does not use the brakes.
  • If the battery is near full (above about 94%) regen will be reduced as it can’t charge the battery fast enough to provide adequate braking force. Since regen is limited, and the friction brakes are NOT used, it will not slow down as much as you are used to.
  • The right hand side of the drivers console has the kW currently used or the amount being regenerated. When the battery is near full (above about 94%), there is a white line that tells you the max regen. It slowly moves lower as the battery uses power. Then when the line goes all the way down the regen “battery” icon turns from grey to green, indicating that full regen is possible.
  • The rear brake lights will be illuminated somewhere between 0.7 and 1.3 m/s² of speed reduction. That’s about 2.5mph/sec or 4kph/sec of speed reduction. It is not directly tied to the amount of regen.
General Info on Driving
  • L vs D mode, L or D, D or L – it’s entirely your preference.
    • D mode is designed to simulate a gas vehicle. Gentle coasting.
    • L mode is designed to maximize regen, but can result in slowing down too much.
    • If you want to drive in L, try to get use to feathering the accelerator and treating it like a throttle instead of just on/off. This will help with jerkiness and efficiency.
    • Maybe one is slightly more efficient than the other, but really it’s more about how you drive it.
  • You can hold the paddle and throttle the accelerator at the same time, giving you even more regen and maximum control.
  • Sport Mode doesn’t give you any additional power, but it will make the accelerator feel more responsive.
  • If driving in L mode, you can come to a complete stop without pressing the brake pedal. However, the brake light will not be illuminated at a stop. You might want to consider putting your foot on the brake if that is a concern to you.
  • Is L mode suddenly not stopping your car? Make sure that your seatbelt is buckled.
Info on Home Charging
  • Not sure what EVSE to get? Take a look at the breakdown here.
  • Generally follow the first rule – ABC – Always Be Charging. When you can, plug it in.
  • With a full speed Level 2 home charger, you can recharge the battery in about 9.5 hours from empty to full.
  • On level 1 (120V) it will take about 50 hours to recharge from empty to full.
  • Although your cellphone and car use similar battery chemistry, they are extremely different. The car batteries will likely last 20+ years, and will be useful for grid/stationary storage after they are no longer useful in a car. Don’t worry about charging as you need for comfort and convenience.
  • For home charging you must decide what you really want. The Bolt can only take 240V @ 32A, and you’ll get the same charge with a simple portable charger as you will with a feature-filled WiFi controllable charger. There are benefits to both, depending on what you actually want.
  • There are many options, but here are some of the most common good ones: Clipper Creek HCS-40P, JuiceBox 40 with Wifi, ChargePoint Home FlexMuStart is a good inexpensive portable Level 2,  or ZenCar with adjustable current output which is needed if you will plug in various places.
  • Really, charge it to whatever you want and drive it however you want. The battery is solid and will likely outlast the body of your car. However, if you want the absolute best, use Hilltop Reserve (2017/2018) or Target Charge Level (2019+) with ~80%. If you need the extra range, charge to full. This limit doesn’t impact DCFC.
  • If you’d like a good quick tutorial on how to set time-of-day charging (you can set up to 5 time periods), check out this youtube video.
  • Ideally set departure mode so that the battery only finishes charging about a half an hour before you’re ready to leave. This will help to temperature condition the battery to keep it ready for driving and maximize range.
  • The charging cable is called an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) and is essentially a smart extension cord that just takes wall power and ensures that it is safe to put it into the car.
  • Level 1 AC charging is done at ~120V and runs at either 8A or 12A, and defaults to 8A (1.5% or 3 miles per hour of range). Make sure that you use a new outlet and a circuit that doesn’t have anything else on it. Continuous rated power draw must not exceed 80% of the circuit maximum. If nothing else on a 15A circuit, you can use 12A mode (2% or 4 miles per hour of range).
  • Level 2 efficiency is somewhere a bit higher than 90%, so account for 10% extra power usage from the wall as the car uses if you are calculating cost. Level 1 efficiency is a few percent less than Level 2.
  • Home Level 2 charging will (ballpark, full EPA estimate) add about 10% per hour, or 0.75 miles of range per amp per hour. 32A = 24 miles per hour added. Commercial Level 2 is likely 208V (as opposed to 240V home) so about 2/3rds of a mile per amp per hour of range. 1 hour at 30 amp = 20 miles. See Range FAQs above for scaling.
  • The included Level 1 (120V) EVSE can be used at 240V 12A safely with just a cable adapter that lets you plug it into a 240V outlet. This will provide 4% per or 8 miles of EPA range per hour.
  • If you want to bypass your time-of-day charging settings, and charge immediately, just plug in, wait for it to engage, then unplug and plug back in within 5 seconds. It will then switch to immediate charge mode for this session only.
  • Can’t see the charge port at night and don’t want to spend the extra for the official illuminated port? Here’s a cheaper alternative!
  • We cannot charge at Tesla Superchargers, however we can charge at Destination Chargers with an adapter like TeslaTap or Lectron or the JDapter.
  • Plug in your Bolt and the charge-indicator LED lights on the center of the dash will flash to indicate the battery state of charge: 1 flash is at or below 25 percent, 2 flashes for below 50%, 3 for 75% and 4 for above 75%. Solid for fully charged.
Info on Fast Charging
  • DC Fast Charging (DCFC) is through the Combined Charging Standard (CCS) connector which most auto manufacturers around the world are standardizing on. This is different than ChaDeMo (which the Leaf uses), so be careful when you look at your charging locations. We cannot use Tesla SuperChargers either.
  • Unfortunately the 2017-2019 MY (Model Year) Bolts do not like to fast charge when cold, so they will charge slowly until the battery warms up to full temperature (59F/15C). Yes, this is very annoying when you’re paying by the minute, and no there’s not much you can do to help other than plugging into a cheaper L2 first. However, there may be hope for us now!
  • Similarly in really hot weather it will throttle the charge rate if it gets too hot (around 100F).
  • The maximum fast charge rate is 150A, but many DCFC are “50kW” units that can only put out 125A or 100A. Simply put, this means that the charge rate will slowly climb during charging below 50% up to 38, 45 or 55kW depending on 100, 125 or 150A units. Cold temperatures can drop the % at which the throttling happens by up to 5%.
  • 2017-2019 MY Bolts have an artificial step-down taper. Around 55% it will drop to 38kW max (100A), 68% drops to 24kW (60A) max, 86% drops to 16kW (40A) max, and 94% drops to 10kW (25A) max.
  • The 2020 MY Bolts got rid of this artificial taper, and we now have a smooth gradual decline after 50%.
  • Fast charging ignores the time of day charging restrictions, and also the charge limit restrictions. However, some DCFC units will automatically stop at 80% to encourage you to move along so that others can charge, since it takes a long time to charge past 80%.
  • With 2017-2019 MY Bolts, it takes about 1 hour to go from 10-70% at a “50kW” 125A charger (most common), which adds about 145 miles of good-weather 65mph range. This is the optimal charging for road trips. That’s 2h15m of driving and 1h of charging.
    • It also takes an hour to go from 70-100%, which is why charging that high is generally avoided.
Info on Pricing
  • This one is really hard, as prices are all over the map. It really depends on where you live. In some jurisdictions there’s pretty much no discounts at all – full MSRP (like Canada and many rust belt states).
  • Other states have huge discounts, coupled with dealers that layer on every imaginable GM discount, getting up to 10-14k off MSRP.
  • We have heard of new Premieres being purchased for $22k USD out the door, for example. But that’s very rare.
  • If you want to track used price trends, check out cargurus.
Info on Model Years, Trims, and Software
  • The 2017-2019 MY (Model Year) Bolts have a 60kWh usable battery, and 238 miles of EPA range, but that is just an estimate. This is based off of ideal temperature and a mix of driving conditions, both highway and city.
  • The 2020 MY (Model Year) Bolt has a slightly larger battery – 66kWh and 259 miles of EPA range. This also provides for slightly faster overall fast charging, and much faster cold weather fast charging. Not many other changes were included.
  • The EPA ranges are pretty accurate, and can be achieved reliably even on a road trip at 65mph in good weather.
  • The 2018 MY added a telescoping sun visor (which can be put into 2017MY), and the heated steering wheel can come on automatically. That’s about it.
  • The 2019 MY made the Driver Confidence II Package available on the LT model. In prior years, the package’s availability was restricted to the Premier trim level. The package includes many safety features and autonomous braking. It also changed out the Hilltop Reserve (88% charge limit) to a customizable Target Charge Level which allows the driver to set charge limit in 5% increments from 40% up. It also added the ability for the driver to control heating and A/C separately (can turn one off but not the other).
  • Check here for a more complete breakdown of the differences between the LT and Premiere trims.
  • It is expected that the 2021 MY will have a mid-cycle refresh with a slightly redesigned interior and possibly many more optional features added.
  • Software:
    • Although they have the capability to do OTA updates, they have only done one thus far, for the 2017 MY to remove video playback functionality.
    • 2017: 14.5.0 (B or C same, only differ on install method)
    • 2018: 25.7.0
    • 2019: 34.7.1
    • 2020: 46.1.4
Info on Taking Road Trips
  • The Bolt uses a CCS type of DC Fast Charging (DCFC) frequently referred to as Level 3 (L3), despite that being incorrect. J1772 is the standard that almost every EV other than Tesla uses for Level 1 and Level 2 (AC) charging.
  • The best site for looking up where charging stations are is PlugShare – be sure to set the correct filter type, and check the recent reviews of whatever station you want to use to ensure that it’s working.
  • You can also use A Better Route Planner or ChargeWay to plan your routes.
  • If you can, run your GPS nav from your phone at the same time as driving, and ensure that your estimated range left is at least 10% higher than the distance that you need. Slow down to keep that buffer.
  • Always know where your “outs” are and a backup is in case you need charging before you think, or if the charger isn’t working or is occupied when you get there.
  • Overall, plan for about 50% more time than driving a gas car. Yes, it’s not fantastic, but it’s cheap and much better for the environment. Try to schedule your stops during meal breaks or other leisure stops to minimize disruption.
  • You’ll want to get accounts with GreenLotsElectrify AmericaChargePoint, and EVgo. If you’re in Canada, look up Flo and Petro Canada as well.
  • Make sure to have the app on your phone, and physical cards where possible in case their station doesn’t have network connections.
  • Optimal speed for best overall time is about 65-70mph. Driving slower will give you more range, but provided optimal DCFC placement you won’t make up the time lost by driving slower. Driving faster will reduce range and more time than you save while driving will be lost to charging.
  • With 2017-2019 MY Bolts, it takes about 1 hour to go from 10-70% at a “50kW” 125A charger (most common), which adds about 145 miles of good-weather 65mph range. This is the optimal charging for road trips. That’s 2h15m of driving and 1h of charging.
    • It also takes an hour to go from 70-100%, which is why charging that high is generally avoided.
  • The heater is not very efficient – it can use up to 7.5kW. To extend your range, try favouring the heated steering wheel and heated seats. Bundle up.
  • By turning off the Heat/Cool button, you can still have the fan running the vents / defog without losing any range. This can help to reduce fogging, but be careful.
Info on the Battery
  • No, contrary to what you have heard or might think, there is no buffer in the battery. We use the entire range of the battery. But that’s not a problem, it’ll still last.
  • Yes, the 2017-2019 battery is actually 57kWh, but we can get ~60kWh with normal usage. This is because the way that they rate batteries is harder than normal driving. The 2020 has a “66kWh” battery in it, but we don’t know much about the details.
  • There is a liquid cooling system that does a decent job at keeping the battery in a happy temperature range for maximum longevity.
  • No, your nearly new Bolt does not already have battery degradation – see above for FAQs regarding range.
  • Actually even high mileage Bolts (100k+ miles) are showing very minimal degradation in the 5-10% maximum range.
Info on the Tires
  • The Bolt comes with Michelin Energy Saver A/S Self Sealing Low Rolling Resistance tires 215/50R17. These are different than run-flat. They have a goo inside which can seal a puncture and slow the leak. Removing a small object might seal the leak entirely, but the tire should still be replaced or properly repaired as soon as possible.
  • It is possible to properly plug and repair a puncture! Check here for the GM guide.
  • Low rolling resistance tires save about 5-10% of range over regular ones, but aren’t great at traction.
  • You can safely inflate the OEM tires to 42PSI which will save another 3-5% range above 35PSI.
  • The Bolt has a lot of torque, so if you have a heavy foot you will wear out your front tires pretty quickly. This is why it’s critical to do tire rotations on schedule.
  • Good alternate tires:
  • Winter Tires:
Info about Contacting GM, OnStar, and KeyPass
  • GM Bolt Advisors:
    • US # 1-888-811-1926 24/7
    • Canada # 1-800-268-6800 24/7
  • Yes, the service is pretty terrible.
  • Yes, KeyPass is pretty flaky and hard to get setup.
  • No, you do not have to pay for remote keyfob, despite what they will insistently tell you. You can get free remote keyfob for 5 years by using the magic words “EV Mobile Command Package”. If the sales rep refuses, ask to speak to a supervisor (and complain straight to GM about this).
  • As of September 2019 they broke KeyPass and promised to fix it around Feb 2020.
Info about Using an Inverter
  • If you need to power your house (or anything else), get a good quality pure sine wave inverter that is (ideally) 2000W+ continuous watts, and connect directly to the 12V battery terminals.
  • The Bolt can provide 130A or about 1600W of continuous power on the 12V system from the main traction battery. This means about 1400W of AC power output continuous. Short loads higher than that are ok.
  • If you need to run it for more than 1-2 hours (when the Bolt will auto turn off), turn the car on,a the parking brake, shift into neutral, and exit via the passenger door.
Info about Adding Storage
  • Roof racks – 3 major kinds, they will reduce range
  • Trailer Hitches – just be careful about the hitch type and tongue weight. Expect a big range hit – somewhere from 25-50%.
Info for Those who Like Data
  • Feel free to check out my page on OBD2 data collection, and how to set up a dashboard on your phone with all sorts of nerdy details. You can also help us collect more information on the Bolt!
Info on Android Auto / Apple CarPlay
  • Some people have had success with using a wireless carplay adapters. Try this one, or this one. The 2021 will have Qi charging and Wireless CarPlay built in.
  • Generally speaking, all of the steering wheel controls will work for playing audio, and many controls within AA or ACP.
  • You can use the press’n’hold the home button in Android Auto as well. Plus you can use the “end call” button on the steering wheel to pause/play media and the favorite up/down buttons to skip forward/back (Thanks: Henrik Csuri)
  • When you exit carPlay to look at something else on the screen, pressing and holding the home key takes you back to carPlay.
General Info
  • Driving in the winter – OEM tires are ok, but if you tend to have a lot of slippery roads you’ll probably want good winter tires
  • Infotainment system not working? Something strange going on? Won’t get rid of the reverse camera? Try a reboot – hold Home+FF (two buttons to the right of the volume knob) for 10 seconds. Safe to do at any time.
  • Weird clicking/clunking coming from your front wheels while turning? It’s a known problem. Get your dealer to look up this bulletin for stabilizer links. There’s a Korean Recall out too.
  • Live in an area with rodents? Peppermint oil, dryer sheets, or mothballs in the engine compartment might help. Here are some other ideas.
  • Changing the cabin air filter should be done annually. You can get them cheap on Amazon and change it yourself very easily.
  • If you feel like you get flashed more often than you should, or your headlight aim is slightly off, look here for more information.
  • If your steering wheel doesn’t quite return to center, get your dealer to check out service bulletin 17-NA-148.
  • Just like carrying a towel is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have, carrying a 10mm stubby wrench may just save your hide one day. Very rarely, but sometimes, the car can glitch out and prevent you from driving away (conditions not correct for shift). With the car turned off, disconnect the negative battery terminal under the hood for a minute or two to reset all computer systems. Just be prepared for the alarm to go off when you reconnect it.
  • Press and hold the inside unlock driver door button for 3 seconds to disable auto lock.
  • The 2020 MY did add HD cameras, however you cannot use those on older models.
  • Yes, the car will let you drive away without an active fob in it, but you should have received multiple warnings about this. Be careful when dropping off someone who might have the only fob!
  • Best floor mats – TuxMatMotor Trend (generic but work), 3D MaxpiderWeatherTech.
  • There’s an additional storage compartment BELOW the top tray in the arm rest.
  • There’s an additional styrofoam lined storage compartment in the trunk below the removable floor where the 110V EVSE and tow eye bolt is supposed to be stored.
  • You do not need to flat-bed tow the Bolt, just ensure that all wheels are off the ground when towing. Tell the tow truck driver that you have all wheel drive, and they will dolly the rear wheels. Do NOT tow the Bolt without that unless you disconnect the 12V battery as the auto parking brake can engage.
  • A grinding noise occasionally heard when shifting into Park is normal. This is the car applying the hydraulic brakes to ensure that the car is entirely stopped, there is no damage by doing this.
  • There are also 2 storage compartments in the styrofoam trunk liner where a can of tire sealant and a compressor can be stored for use, if the Bolt’s “self-sealing” tires fail. The tire inflation “kit” is available from Chevy for $95 – Part #84237904.
  • Clicking the Regen on Demand paddle once will turn off cruise control.
  • The infotainment system energy used since last full charge display does account for regen.
  • The main ring around the driver’s information cluster (DIC) changes colour based on how efficient you are driving, as does the trend indicator lines on the left side.
  • If your keyfob battery dies, or otherwise doesn’t let you into your car, don’t fret. There is a little button on the side of it and you can pull out a physical key. Put the key in the hole in the bottom of the driver-door handle and you can pop off a plastic cover where there is a normal key lock. Open the door using the key in the now exposed manual door lock. Open the armrest, and remove the upper pocket. Place the keyfob, buttons facing down, in the bottom of the armrest storage bin in the front left corner. Here is a good video tutorial.
  • There is no warning for low windshield washer fluid. In the winter you’ll need to check and top up frequently. The rear window fluid will fail to spray before the windshield does, so you can use that occasionally to check.
  • Don’t like the seats? Approximately 20% of people find the seats uncomfortable. But there’s an easy fix – just add 2-3″ of foam under the existing foam. Takes about 15 minutes to do. Here’s a video. Here’s an example of the type of foam to use. Some people have also added seat pads. The 2021 model finally has new seats with motorized controls for the driver.
  • You can add a tow-hitch to your car fairly easily (either yourself by removing the rear bumper – easier than it sounds, or by a professional). The Bolt is not rated for towing, but people seem to find it’s ok for simple loads like small utility trailers.
  • Forgetful and don’t always plug in? If you have the (free) OnStar setup, you can get a text message notification if you have not plugged in. Go into the myChevrolet App and Settings (at the very bottom of the main screen), Communication Preferences, EV Notifications.
  • Worried about your 12V battery? Grab a cheap lithium ion booster pack, and you can also get a 12V bluetooth battery monitor for about $30 USD / $40 CDN which will also log everything about your battery, even when you’re not around!
  • Here are some good rain visors to use for the windows.
  • You can add a simple LED necklace to your charge port for $10 to help illuminate it at night.
  • Car Washes – The Bolt can go through any kind of car wash. If you are going through a car wash that requires it to be in neutral, the simple instructions for how to do that can be found in your Owner’s Manual (page 208) for either the car remaining on or off.

That’s it for now! Let me know in the comments if there’s anything else that you can think of!

Drive Safe!

8 thoughts on “Chevy Bolt – Most Frequently Asked Questions

  • February 9, 2020 at 4:28 am
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    A lot of great info here.

    Reply
  • March 6, 2020 at 5:20 am
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    I’ve been driving electrically since 2014 and recently bought a 2020 Bolt. This should be required reading for all new Bolt owners. Well written and chock full of facts!

    Reply
  • March 6, 2020 at 7:26 am
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    Hands down the most comprehensive Bolt guide I’ve found. Thank you for your amazing contribution.

    Reply
  • March 8, 2020 at 3:05 pm
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    Great great writing and info but the LED necklace at the end is hysterical. Thank you!

    Reply
    • March 25, 2020 at 3:05 pm
      Permalink

      I have a 2017 bolt and through trial and error I have found that when you are using Android auto through the infotainment unit that you can adjust volume on the driving directions only if you turn your volume knob at the exact moment the directions are being announced.

      Reply
  • March 8, 2020 at 3:36 pm
    Permalink

    Thanks Sean, I hope this will eliminate repeat questions from those who refuse to read the manual. Good idea to have links to download the manuals for those who bought a used bolt where the manual was missing. You should maybe stress the importance of sitting in the car (with Manual in lap) to personalize it to your own preferences.
    Thanks

    Reply

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